Invisibile

The Creation of the Invisible Sandal

In 1947, Salvatore Ferragamo introduced "Invisibile," a design that challenged the structural conventions of mid-century footwear. The work, also known as the Invisible Sandal, emerged from the Italian designer's pursuit of anatomical innovation and material experimentation. It features a distinctive under-cut wedge heel, a sculptural form known as the F-heel.

The construction of "Invisibile" by Salvatore Ferragamo relied on the use of transparent nylon monofilament. This material was threaded through the insole to create the upper, a technique that dematerialized the traditional silhouette of the shoe. This specific approach to construction earned the designer the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Services in 1947.

Visual Composition and Design Elements

The design relies on a striking interplay between solid structure and transparency. Sleek black leather straps provide a dark, grounded foundation, while silver straps introduce a sense of sophistication through subtle metallic contrast. This interplay is heightened by the use of a continuous length of nylon monofilament. This thread passes through holes in the insole to construct the upper, creating a visual effect that dematerializes the shoe's structure.

The silhouette is defined by a distinctive F-shaped wooden wedge heel. This under-cut sole, inspired by the stern of an ocean liner, provides a sculptural, architectural quality to the footwear. The dimensions of the piece are 14cm in height, 8.5cm in width, and 23.5cm in length.

Materials and Technical Construction

The construction of the sandal relies on a specialized use of nylon monofilament. A continuous length of this transparent nylon fishing line passes through holes in the insole, creating the upper structure. This technique allows the material to appear nearly invisible, dematerializing the traditional silhouette of the shoe. The upper is further composed of leather, specifically utilizing suede and calfskin to provide substance to the design.

The foundation of the footwear is an under-cut wedge heel, often referred to as the F-heel. This component is carved from wood and takes an undulating shape inspired by the stern of an ocean liner. The integration of rigid wooden elements with the flexible, translucent nylon creates a structural contrast between the solid base and the lightweight upper.

Historical Context and Artistic Significance

Created during World War II and the immediate post-war period, the design reflects the anxieties of an era defined by scarcity and uncertainty. The use of metallic leather was a deliberate choice to dematerialize the remaining structure of the shoe, creating an illusion of lightness. This approach represented a bold departure from traditional leather construction, utilizing unconventional materials to navigate the limitations of the time.

The work marks a milestone in the history of fashion. By integrating transparent nylon monofilament with sculptural forms, the design challenged established manufacturing practices. It transformed footwear from a purely functional object into a study of structural innovation and material experimentation.

Collections and Museum Locations

Examples of this design are held in several prominent international institutions. The Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art possesses a pair, which was a gift of Mrs. R. L. Gilpatric in 1960. This specific acquisition is part of the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection.

Other versions of the sandal are preserved in specialized collections. The Victoria and Albert Museum in London holds a pair, while the Kyoto Costume Institute in Kyoto maintains a version of the footwear. These holdings reflect the global presence of Ferragamo's mid-century innovations.

Related Works by Salvatore Ferragamo

Ferragamo’s output spans various sculptural and functional forms, ranging from early prototypes to later experimental designs. His early career included the creation of the Prototipo di décolleté, dating to about 1929. This period of experimentation continued into the late 1930s with the Prototipo di sandalo in 1938.

The artist's later repertoire includes the 1952 Sandal, which emphasizes high-level craftsmanship. Beyond traditional footwear, his creative scope extended to sculptural objects, such as the Pollicino, a shoe sculpture characterized by Pop Art influences.

• Sandal (1952)
• Pollicino